Long before the popular southern trek, climbers reached Annapurna’s summit from the rugged north. Ghumante retraces this historic 1950 route — the true base camp where Himalayan mountaineering began.

Every year in Nepal, thousands of travelers do the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek, one of its most popular trekking routes. And a smaller number, about a hundred people also come to climb Annapurna spending weeks acclimatizing and assessing their summit plan in its base camp. Did you know that these are two different base camps? 

Many in Nepal and beyond have the misconception that the end point of the ABC trek is where climbers also set up base camp. But the real base camp of Annapurna is different, located to the North of the mountain. Some distinguish these two as South and North Base Camp of Annapurna. The South Base Camp of Annapurna has only seen a handful of climbs -the first being the famous British Expedition led by Chris Bonnington in 1970. Expedition companies and climbers prefer the safer and easier North Face of the mountain. Recent commercial expeditions exclusively take place in the North base camp. The term base camp often means a starting point in summiting a mountain. In this sense, the ‘North’ base camp must be acknowledged when talking about a trek to Annapurna Base Camp.

In 1950, Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal and Ang Tharkay Sherpa of a French expedition team made history with the first successful ascent of an 8,000 metre peak, Annapurna I (8,091m), the 10th highest mountain in the world. This marked a milestone in mountaineering history and also served as a starting point of mountaineering in Nepal. The historic Annapurna Base Camp used during this pioneering expedition is in the northern region in Myagdi district and is commonly referred to as Annapurna North Base Camp.

Annapurna North Base Camp

Tej Bahadur Gurung and Narimaya Purja Pun Gurung, a couple from Narchyang village have dedicated much of their time to reviving the historic trail walked by this expedition team. If this trail can be popularized, it will have great benefit to their village. It all began with Tej Bahadur’s fateful meeting with Maurice Herzog, who was visiting the school where he worked. Before this meeting, Tej himself was unaware that just next to his village was a trail mountaineers were taking to climb Annapurna. This sparked his curiosity about the lesser-known expedition and led him to rediscover and promote the almost-forgotten trail. Narimaya played a crucial role by rallying local support.

Tej Bahadur and Narimaya, a couple from Narchyang, who have made it their life's mission to promote the North Base Camp of the mountain

The trail to this historic base camp passes through Narchyang, a village six hours drive away from Pokhara. This picturesque village is predominantly inhabited by the Magars, an indigenous community, and offers an unforgettable experience of culture, heritage, history and hospitality.

Narchyang village 

A two-hour drive from Narchyang brings travellers to Humkhola (2, 800 m), an end to a bumpy road ride and the start of a proper trek. After three hours of hike from Humkhola, one can find themselves at Gupha Phant (3,319 m), home to five stunning waterfalls aptly named as Pancha Jharna, aka the five waterfalls area. Here at elevations exceeding 3000m, trekkers need to be aware of altitude-related sickness.

Narchyang waterfalls

Next point is Bhusketmela (3,551 m), a series of hills with meadows and small caves. A little further on is the final hurdle to ABC. The seasonal river called Sunkhola is dry most of the year but swells dangerously during the monsoon.

A shelter house in Bhusketmela

At Panchakunda Lake (4050m), trekkers are rewarded with a breathtaking view of a turquoise lake, a glacier and the towering Annapurna I. Here, a dharmasala (pilgrims' lodge) offers shelter before the final push to ABC.

This is ABC, the base camp used by the French expedition to climb Annapurna I for their historic ascent. Due to landslides, the original base camp had to be relocated further down. Today, a bust of Maurice Herzog is erected on this relocated site as a tribute to this achievement. His book titled” Annapurna, Conquest of the first 8000-metre Peak” documents the expedition. 

While various sources document this historic expedition, it is not well known in Nepal and has fallen into obscurity when it comes to trekking and tourism.

Thanks to the dedication of Tej Bahadur, Narimaya, and the people of Narchyang, this historic site is regaining its rightful recognition. Although many refer to it popularly as the Annapurna North Base Camp, this undermines a decade of tireless effort. This is, and always should be recognized as, Annapurna Base Camp - the birthplace of mountaineering in Nepal.

Maurice Herzog’s bust

Even today, hundreds of climbers assemble in this base camp every year, hoping to fulfil their summit dreams. While this provides employment to Nepali guides, support staff and expedition agencies, since most of the supplies and human resources are flown in directly to base camp, there is minimal spillover on the local populace. 

While the South Annapurna Base Camp may continue to bask in its glory and bring in visitors, travelers have the option to choose the other Annapurna Base Camp Trek as well. This is an opportunity to experience what Herzong’s team saw, and also see the actual place where the summit push begins. While earlier there were no good lodging facilities in this trail, with increased attention and publicity, we are happy to report that tea houses and good accommodation services are springing up. If you are planning for your next trip within Nepal, this new yet old trekking route may be the perfect choice for you.

Today, June 3, 2025 marks the diamond jubilee or 75 year celebration of the first ascent of Annapurna by the 1950 French Expedition team led by Maurice Herzog. His son, and his grandson among others will be walking this trail to commemorate the occasion.