Search and recovery operations on Mount Makalu (8,485m) have been suspended after a second attempt to retrieve the body of a Sherpa climber failed amid extreme winter conditions, the expedition organiser said on Thursday.

Phurba Ongel Sherpa, a veteran high-altitude guide, died last week during the descent from the world’s fifth-highest mountain after falling from above Camp IV at around 7,400 metres. Efforts to recover his body were abandoned after rescuers were forced to turn back from Camp IV due to extreme cold and high winds.

Mohan Lamsal, managing director of Makalu Adventure, the expedition organising agency, said a team of high-altitude rescuers deployed by 8K Expeditions returned to base camp without retrieving Phurba’s body. “The team reached Camp IV but could not find anything. The winds made it impossible to move forward,” Lamsal told Everest Chronicle.

The fate of Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali remains unknown. Gozali went missing during the same descent and has not been seen since. Expedition officials said no trace of him had been found and that his communication devices were believed to be non-functional.

The death and disappearance occurred during a rare winter ascent of Makalu in eastern Nepal. On Thursday morning, four climbers — Sanu Sherpa, Phurba Ongel Sherpa, Abolfazl Gozali and Lakpa Rinji Sherpa — successfully reached the summit.

The descent, however, proved catastrophic. Phurba Ongel fell to his death, while Gozali was last seen descending alone near Camp III. Lakpa Rinji Sherpa suffered frostbite to his hand.

Indian climber Piyali Basak was the only other mountaineer attempting the world’s fifth-highest peak this winter. She turned back from Camp III due to health concerns and returned safely.

The expedition organiser launched search and rescue operations on Friday after the incident occurred at around 3 p.m. local time the previous day. Aerial searches were not possible for two consecutive days due to adverse weather, though ground rescuers managed to reach Camp III, but were forced to turned back to the base camp.

Teams waited at base camp for a favourable weather window, with additional oxygen, food and fuel flown in to support a recovery mission. Those plans were ultimately shelved as forecasts continued to predict dangerous winds and sub-zero temperatures.

“The staff will shut down the base camp, and all rescuers and expedition members will return to Kathmandu tomorrow,” Lamsal said. “This will mark the close of the season.”

For renowned climber Sanu Sherpa, who led the expedition, the tragedy is deeply personal. Phurba Ongel was his younger brother, and Gozali was a client with whom he had attempted Makalu last year.

This is the first time in his climbing career that he has lost both a family member and a climber under his leadership on the same expedition.

Sanu Sherpa, who has more than 40 summits of 8,000-meter peaks, is the first mountaineer to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks twice. With Makalu completed, he is nearing a third round; only Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri remain.